Need cam timing specs 22r toyota truck

22R and 20R have the same timing chain setup so follow the link please. 22R RE REC RET Timing Chain Replacement Instructions

Does it pop and backfire? Are you sure the distributor was also correctly set? If any of that is true, you may be 180° out of time.

14 ft lbs. be real carefull with these that u dont over torque and strip.

22R 4 cyl.Get # 1 piston to TDC(stick the harmonic balancer back on temporary)setting the mark to O on the timing tab,pull the balancer back off and slip the chain on the crank gear after finding the single dot on the chain.Set the mark on the cam gear at very top and put the chain mark on that mark on the cam gear.Stick the cam gear back on the cam and bolt it back on.Your set now.

what engine? size? 22R 22RE or 3F-E? 3VZ-E?
never work an car with out knowing what engine and if old EFI or carb.
look at it , in USA the under hood sticker clearly states engine in car.
does your motor have a timing belt for the cam>?
ever change it every 60K,,, oops////
on old cars ,and this one is.
I always check compression,, at WOT, (wide open throttle)
if 80psi the cam slipped. if 150PSI x4 its a winner

next is spark, if the cam slips, BTW< the spark timing is GONE
OUT TO LUNCH timing, no , dont change it ,fix the belt first.
and back firing is caused by bad timing....
22R and 22R-E engines have a cam chain.
but seen many cars with a screaming chain, owners ignore it....
seen them slip too.. as hard as it is to believe. (im never shocked)


#2, do that 60k tuneup for spark and filters now, amazing what a simple tune up does, with new spark wire, in winter they short.
and air filter and fuel filter,

spark timing> spec:
At idle the 22R-E should read 10-14deg BTDC, 3VZ-FE should read 8deg BTDC, and the 3F-E should read 12deg BTDC.
if way off, the cam is out of time. (no one messed with engine)

code 12
means the ECU found a dead sensor (spark) NE, G1 or G2
these are all sensors for spark, cam or crank or both.
the FSM covers this.
code 12 are loss of sensor for 2 second cranking
and is a bad sensor, not calibrated , or bad wire to it,, etc.
think about this. (no engine stated, so generic answers happen)
IF the cam is off time.
the CAM sensor is fibbing, as compared to the crank sensor.
so it would not be a suprise to me, that code 12 throw.

that is why i check spark timing first. then if way off
check compression 2nd, and if way off.
time 4
the cam end is exposed and timing verified.

if engine is interference type, is use a total different strategy.
do no harm, is first. (visual inspections of cam are first)

next time post the engine you have.
merry Chrismas and hope we find it fast.

simple to figure that out . the key ways are always up on camshafts. it allows for them not to fall out when assembling the engine . so use the balancer to determine tdc (top dead center on cyl one) and make sure both keys are straight up . (just loosen the cam retainer nuts and look to see what set of marks they line up with and dont forget t re-torque them to factory specs somewhere between 22 and 28 ft lbs but not a lot more) , google the specs up to be sure

you may find them online but if it were me i would go to local auto parts and spend the $24.95 on a haynes repair manual it has pictures of the marks and the tension specs etc worth the $$ , remove #12 spark plug and take a peice of wire stick it into the hole till it touchs the piston then rotate the crankshaft till its a top dead center then look down at the line up marks behind the crank gear they should line up then rotate the camshaft till marks line up should be 12 oclock on cam gear? this is sometimes tricky to get it lined up without it being 1 tooth off thats why picture is best ? hope this helps [email protected]

The timing of most 22r's of that era was 10 degrees b4. But, the underhood specifications sticker often reflects tune-up spec changes made in production. Sticker figures must be used if they are different from any chart or advice you become aware of.
Your cam and headers make no difference in the timing. All the cam does is make the valves open a couple of hairs more, and all the headers do is supposedly let exhaust out easier, and quicker. They aren't necessary or beneficial at all on something as small as a 22r, and in my opinion, just cause problems. (just my opinion)

Well I just looked up the specs for you for the 2.7 ltr. I hope this is what you want.
Cam Caps 105 in.lbs.
Cam Sprocket 250 in.lbs.
Crank Dampener 125 ft.lbs.
Cylinder Head Cover 105 in.lbs.
Here is an illustration of the timing chain set up. Be aware these marks are lined up with the three sets of plated links on the chain. You should easily identify them if you have a new chain. You may have to clean an old chain to see them.
Good luck with this and let me know how it goes for you.

on the intake cam use the middle mark in between the big one and the other small one on the exhaust cam use the use the smallest mark farthest away from the 2 small marks on the same tooth. line those 2 marks up on the same tooth in the middle.