Hobart a-200 Removal of Stator Winding Assembly

Most motors of that type have a capacitor that puts the stator out of phase with the rotor. They are capacitor start induction run motors. These also have a centrifugal switch inside near the end ot the shaft to put power to the start winding for a split second to determine the direction of turn and to increase horsepower until it is up to speed. So if it fails to start either the centrifugal switch needs cleaning (or replacement if damaged) or the capacitor needs replacing to give it its original power, or the start winding has failed from overheating. There may be a thermal cutout on the start winding that may need to be replaced if it did overheat. If the start winding burned then the motor would require rewinding or replacement.

There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

You can go to www.hobartservice.com. select parts and type the machine ML number from the data plate. here are 5 different ML options, otherwise I would have given you the part number.
It will open an exploded view of YOUR machine's build, complete with part numbers.
You can then call your nearest Hobart dealer for a cost and availability. They are still a current model, and for their size, an excellent mixer worth repairing.

if it has a spec.# instead of a ml.#it would have to be at least 25-30 yrs. old

Hi Adam. Easy part first! Check locally for an electric motor specialist, who can rebuild (rewind) the stator for you. If no luck there, check out eBay for a complete motor (stator and rotor), they come along fairly often.

If this solution has assisted you, please rate it. ricardok45

Hi. I can't help you with your first question...But I can help with your brushes problem. Unplug the mixer With the two inspection plates removed at the commutator end loosen the two screws of the brush holder which are above and below the motor bearing cover, they're the only larger screws now visible. Note the markings on the brush holder on the bottom right side where you removed the inspection plate. Rotate the brush holder to the other mark. Set the brush holder screws. Plug in the power. and start the motor. It should now be turning in the proper direction, if not, make small adjustments by loosening the set screws, and moving the brushes until it starts to your satisfaction. Be sure that the set screws are tightened when you're done. If you need further assistance, post a clarification.

I have the same spec. mixer as you do.

If this solution has assisted you, please rate it. Good luck! ricardok45

There is a two letter code that translates to the month and year. You would need to call Hobart to translate. 1-937-332-3000

There are hints to the age, first two digit of the S/N is the factory. "11" are the older ones, spec vs ml on plate, type of power switch, bowl gaurd....

I need the serial #,ml or spec # and the exact model #.Ill help you out.I can tell you right now from your description is the tumbler assembly is worn.

if your looking for the bowl yoke goto hobartcorp.com or call 18884hobart for the part number and price.

goto this site http://www.hobartcorp.com/default.aspx. you will find a parts list/view. before ordering any parts i would call your local hobart branch because the part numbers have changed.make sure you have the ml number or spec number found on the data plate before hand so youll get the right part numbers.any questions let me know,i repair alot of these mixers im a hobart service tech.