I have a lincoln 305 disel welding machine and runs good,welds good for about 4 hours after that it doesnt want to burn the rod and wants to turn off when you try to weld ?

It has been my experience the best flat welding rod is 7024. It is easy to use and forgiving of contact sticking. It has a heavy coating making it easier to keep a consistant gap between rod and workpiece. I always liked 7018 for vertical welding. I hope this helps you out.

weld current and idle control on this machine is controlled by the main circuit board, you mention that you a second ranger 8 that does not exhibit the same problem, you are fortunate in this, remove the board from the functioning machine, install it into the troubled machine, this should correct your problem, you can contact a weld supply store to purchase a replacement pc board

make sure you have a good enough ground on your work-piece. try putting a chunk or strip of metal on or closer to your work-piece to get better current.

Hello; Make sure AC Auto Balancing is Enabled; And when Welding Aluminum Aways use 100% Pure Green Coded Tugsten.Make Sure you dont have 75/25 or possibly if you know for sure your frequency balancing on your machine is working you could possibly have a bad bottle of gas try the bottle of gas on the machine that you say that runs good if it runs good put it back on the 225 if the problems still exist there is something wrong with your machine`s Ac high freqency Auto Balancing.Make sure all connections are good,check tig head for loose connections. Step Up to A 1/8 size tugsten it will carry more heat and gets less contanimated.Every time you stick your tugsten it will run contanimated untill you burn it off or clean it ,if you stick you tugsten go ahead and put a clean piece back in the tig head, Contanimated tugsten wil run dirty for 5 to 20 minutes Untill you BURN it Back Clean !?

If it has a setting for constant volatge, that is for wire feeders, flux cored or mig. Constant current is for stick welding. Some wire feeders have a switch to use them with a constant current machine, but that doesnt work very well, and , in my opinion, is hard on the computer in the feeder.

It looks like the ones we use in the field with a ln-25 wire feeder and flux cored wire. for mig you will also need a bottle of sheilding gas.

try Westermans - used welding machines supplier. They stock the best brands like Lincoln, ESAB, Kemppi and Fronius. They should also have operator manuals for most machines. email them at [email protected] ask for Craig.

Is this on new rods as well as one's you'be been already welding with? Depending on rod types, some will "flux over" the end, after welding insulating the tip. When you're welding at a low setting, with a small rod, sometimes it is hard to start an arc. A 7018 rod is a good example of this. Strike the rod like a woodden match, or drag it on the metal, to expose the rod. It also depends on your welder. Some have settings to help start an arc and then control the current. Older transformer welders arn't that smart and are less forgiving on low current thin metal settings.

I'm having a problem with the wire feed on my Lincoln Pro Mig 140. The wire feed speed is not consistant. It seems to be slipping even though the tension is tight. Any solutions?

1/16th stick to 3/32nd.
3/32nd being the maximum. Don't use 3/32 for an extended period of time, or you can burn up that welder. (Even if it has a fan. If it doesn't have a fan built-in, I invite you to put a house box fan, close to the ventilation slots for the welder)

I would also recommend using 6011 rod. It's a mild steel rod, and is excellent to begin with. Usually used for filling, and medium strength situations. It does splatter, be aware of that.

Not trying to give you a tutorial on beginning welding, but would like to offer some tips:

1.Make sure the ground clamp has a good, clean surface it's clamped to. If not, it will be very hard to get the rod started, and also to keep it going. (Makes bad welds too)

2.Start with a B U T T weld. (Had to type it that way do to censorship of certain words)
That's laying two pieces of metal next to each other, and laying a bead in-between them. Easiest thing to start with. Go to corner welds next, (Two pieces together at a 90 degree angle), then try Uphill welds.

3.Shield flipped up on helmet, welder on. Lay the rod past the area you are going to start on. Past the metal edge. Lay the ->flux coating of the rod on the edge of the metal piece. The tip of the rod is past the metal edge by at least two inches.

This way you are lined up to begin the weld. Then flip your shield down, draw the rod back, until the tip of the rod touches the metal. Once the arc starts, lift the rod up a little to get the correct height, and keep that arc going.

4.Watch the PUDDLE, not the arc! You are watching the melted metal in front of the arc. You need to see how that puddle is doing, in order to compensate by bringing the rod closer, or further away.

5.Use a Zig-Zag pattern to begin with. Keep the Zig-Zag close to each other, until you are comfortable enough to make a longer pattern. Watch the penetration. Good penetration is the key, not a pretty weld.

6.Use the proper safety equipment. If the welding helmet lens has a tiny little scratch, you will burn your eyes. NO fun, believe me!
You won't know it until you wake up the next day with your eyes swelled shut!

Cover your arms, and use welding gloves. Welders give can give you a radiation burn, worse than a bad sunburn. NEVER just start welding a little with No welding helmet. Welding goggles are for the birds, or Acetylene welding!

Be safe, have fun welding!

different gas mixes will give different amounts of spatter, pure co2 doesnt spatter too bad, flux core spatters like crazy, and 75/25 has light spatter also