Unit leaks from what appears to be from behind pressure spring when water turns on. No high pressure

A few things spring to mind.

Failed Defrost timer.
Failed Evaporator fan.
Blocked Defrost drain.

Calling for service is your best bet.

if it is a small tube (1/4 " ) it will be the pressure tube from the tub to the water level controller unit up top
it is what is used to move the pressure from the rising water as the tub fills up to the controller against the set spring tension , that when exceeded turns the water off and moves the program on to wash

Look where the oil comes out of the system. However I suggest posting in the automotive area!

ON the side of the outer tub unit there is a small plastic/rubber hose that goes up to the level switch behind the panel. This sometime fills with water or blocks or is cracked and leaks out air. The purpose of this tube is to hold a pressure in it which increases as the water flows into the tub. This increase in pressure works against a spring tension which you adjust by selection the desired water level. As the water rises the air trapped in the tube reaches a point where the pressure overcomes the setting and allows the switch to turn off the water and move the machine on to the next cycle. Now if all that is working and the machine starts agitating and the water is still coming in then the fault will be in the water inlet solenoid valve . It will have a cracked diaphragm or dirt and will have to be replaced Probably why the machine works when you bash it.

You can download the manual here: http://www.farmprotractors.com/hdcmanuals/PW2200-03435.pdf

It is probably the same manual that came with the unit.

As far as pressure... hook up the water supply hose and turn on the water supply. Let the supply hose purge all of the air out. Then turn off the water and connect the high pressure hose. After that turn the water supply on again with the engine off and squeeze the wand trigger. Make sure all of the air is out of the high pressure hose. Then start the unit...
Once the engine has stabilized rapidly squeeze and let go of the wand trigger several times. Your exersizing the bypass / unloader valve spring. By this time you should have good pressure. If you have owned the unit less than 90 days and your sure you have a warranty issue use this link to contact the company:
http://www.homier.com/contacts

Contact Information:
Homier Distributing Company, Inc.
84 Commercial Road
Huntington, Indiana 46750
Hours of Operation:
M-F 8:00am - 5:00pm EST

I note they do NOT include a phone number on their contact page but do state empatically that warranty contact should be made via email [email protected]

You will also need a warranty form here:
http://www.homier.com/return-authorization-form.pdf

Some of these units have a sliding assy on the wand that slides toward the ouput nozzle for adding soap / chemicals. If the slide is not pulled back toward trhe wand and locked into place you will not have any pressure either.

It appears from reading the manual that this particular unhit had 2 different nozzles. One for chemicals and one for high pressure. Plese make sure you have the high pressure nozzle installed. The BLACK nozzle is for chemical use. (page 5 of manual link above)

The red, yellow or white nozzles are all for high pressure with different spray patterns.

This is about the best I can do for you Ron. Hope it was helpful.

Kelly

1. If you have an inlet chemical injection valve make sure that the hose is intact and that the valve is closed.
2. Purge all air from the line by holding the nozzle actuation lever open until all air has been purged. When you connect the water supply hose turn it on before connecting the high pressure hose and let the unit self purge to the pump outlet high pressure hose fitting. Then connect the high pressure hose.
3. You could have a stuck spring and ball inside the high pressure head of the pump. You can tip the unit on its' side and add a substantial amount of WD-40 to the water supply hose fitting in an attempt to free the springs and balls.
4. Try BRIEFLY running the unit without the hose connected to see if there is high pressure water ejected from the high pressure fitting.
5. Inlet water screen at hose connection is clogged (hose screen and rubber) Check screen for debris.
6. The water strainer is clogged. (Almost looks like an LPG regulator just after but in line of the supply hose connection to the pump)

Order of troubleshooting

1, 2, 5, 6, 4, then 3.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

If there are 2 lines only one will be "high pressure" that one most likely is the leak. Try to clean it off where you think its leaking, with "brake cleaner", have someone turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold it there, that makes the pressure high and the leak should be obvious.

That is not normal, this tells me that the pump has too much pressure that it is forcing water through the brew unit, or the expansion valve(if your model has one was not set properly). Is there a high pitch noise when the pump is running. If yes then it is the expansion, if no then the springs and the valve pins in the brew valve(small white plastic piece behind the brew unit) needs to be replaced.

if the leak is behind the handle take the handle off and tightn the packing nut, do not over tighten, as far as luke warm water is this with just one facucet on, they way these tankless water heaters work they are by gpm, gallons per min, if you have more gallons of water going thru the unit then it is designed for then it won't get hot, if your water pressure is to high going thru it will push it to fast thru the unit and won't get hot, your house pressure should be no higher then 75lbs no lower then 65lbs

Your water pressure may be a liitle too high for the machine to handle. Try turning the water valves for the hot and cold water down a bit to reduce the pressure and try it again.