When I incert a CO2 cylinder, it leaks bad from the no-existant seal at the plunger location.

Hello K Brink,

Kind of like deja vous (all over again )...
Pretty sure: This is the same Question I answered
yesterday (no / yes? ).

There is no going back... Once the CO2 cartridge is
pierced... there is no way to salvage the cylinder
until it is FULLY expended...

If you unscrew the chamber the CO2 will ALL be released.

Just ONE word... If your cylinders are depleted... ALWAYS
check that the SEALING O-ring stays with the hand-gun.

Just make sure yur SEALING RING is still in the "gun"
and NOT STUCK to the ... co2 CARTRIDGE.

I am just saying...

((been there... Done that))...

Carnac the Magnificent

Hello K Brink,

There is no going back... Once the CO2 cartridge is
pierced... there is no way to salvage the cylinder
until it is FULLY expended...

If you unscrew the chamber the CO2 will ALL be released.

Just ONE word... If your cylinders are depleted... ALWAYS
check that the SEALING O-ring stays with the hand-gun.

Just make sure yur SEALING RING is still in the "gun"
and NOT STUCK to the ... co2 CARTRIDGE.

I am just saying...

((been there... Done that))...

Carnac the Magnificent

• I need more info, such as in what condition is the little "O" ring seal? have you tried a bit of vasolene on the seal and the cartridge end found it works better lasts longer and gives better consistency the spring isn't as critical as the seals, start with them then get back with me. Good Luck

Air leaking out of head and driver extended indicates that the cylinder seal is bad and or the head valve is sticking or stuck in the head. Easy to check by removing the head and looking at the large plastic seal on top of the cylinder. If seal looks good, pull out the head valve and lube with white grease. Parts are here :

Good luck

Your seal is probably out...

Was it low to where air entered the lines?

Hi Romi das...

Check out this video, I am sure it will help explain how to repair the 008 Daisy you have.
Please rate me
Bud
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=li_S25ChYTA
You can contact Daisy for parts at:
Daisy Outdoor Products
P.O. Box 220
Rogers, Arkansas
72757-0220
FREE (800) 643-3458 end_of_the_skype_hi
[email protected]

its the master cylinder seals leaking fit new seals or a new cylinder

Most all Hitachi nailers that use the plunger style of firing/safety mech will leak air past plunger (part #877-339) when firing, however should not leak when connected to air or resting. If air is leaking past plunger when connnected to air check following:
Remove head to reveal cylinder plate (part#877-318). Remove plate and check outer oring for nicks or broken. If nicked or broken, replace and problem solved. If in good condition, remove cylinder guide (part #877-310) and check two outer orings for nick /cut. Use caution when removing/installing cylinder guide. It is easy to pinch orings when installing causing air leak at plunger. If orings are in good shape then problem is warped body of gun not allowing outer orings to seal. To check for warped body, use the cylinder plate as a guage by lowering it into the area where the cylinder guide rests. Good Luck with your repair.

1 Chrome Rail (for attachment to Worktop)
4 Self-Tapping Screws (to attach chrome rail)
1 CO2 Cylinder Support Stand
1 CO2 Cylinder (empty)
1 CO2 Regulator (high/low pressure gauges)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose (red)
2 CO2 Air Line Hose Connectors (black)
1 Beer Keg Coupler
1 Beer Tower Unit (complete with faucet, hose and wing nut)
1 Rubber Washer (to be installed inside wing nut)
1 Beer Tower (Quick Connect) Bayonet Attachment (beer tower installation)
4 Machine Screws (to attach bayonet to beer tower)
1 Gasket (beer tower base)
1 Pull Handle (beer tower faucet)
1 Beer Keg Stand (required for 30 liter keg installations only)
1 Protective Plate (refrigerator cabinet floor)
2 Cantilever Wire Shelves (conversion to all refrigerator application)
1 Chill 'n Tap Exterior Cabinet Plug (located on worktop)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose Plug (located exterior rear cabinet)
1 Plastic Drip Tray (2 piece)

1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5


CHI
1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
LL'N TAP ACCESSORIES (included with this unit)